Services‎ > ‎


A driveway, pathway or patio is only as good as its base and its edging. Mark out the area to be covered and dig out to a depth of about 200mm for pathways and patios; 275mm for driveways.
Dig out any soft spots and remove any roots or vegetation. Decide whether the paving is to follow the contours of the land or be laid to a level but, particularly with larger areas, try to engineer some crossfall. Tanalised timber edging can be bent around corners and fixed to stakes driven in on the outside below the eventual ground level. Concrete edgings or blocks on edge in a soldier course must be bedded in concrete.
Dig a spade-width trench another 100mm deep around the perimeter. Fill this with dry mixed 1:4 concrete (one part cement to four parts all-in ballast) and bring it up to a pyramid.

Push the edgings into it and compact the concrete around their base with a gloved hand, taking care not to let it get higher than the base of the eventual sand course on the inside edge. Lay the hardcore to a depth of about 75mm for paths and patios and 150mm for driveways, consolidating it with the plate vibrator. If the driveway is going to have to take heavy duty traffic, substitute the top 75mm of hardcore with a dry 1:5 concrete mix.
Measure down from the top of the edgings to gauge the total thickness of sand. Spread sharp sand to about two thirds of this depth and compact. Spread more sharp sand, levelling it out by means of pegs or marker boards, such that when the paviors are laid they stand 10-13mm proud of the level required.
For pathways, you can notch a straight board to fit over the edgings and drag this over the surface. Working from one end or corner, lay the blocks in your chosen pattern, taking care to butt them up close to each other. Herringbone is good for driveways as it resists the scuff of turning wheels. Stretcher bond can be effective in leading the eye for paths and patios.
When you have laid all the whole blocks, fill in the remaining spaces with cuts. Run the plate vibrator over the blocks to work them down into the sand flush with the edgings. Spread kiln-dried sand over the blocks and brush it in to any crevices. Vibrate once more to work this sand between the blocks and lock them into position.

For further information, please email us using the contact link or telephone us direct